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Darkness over an abyss

Kruger Park in South Africa, whose area is the same as the territory of the State of Israel, is always an impressive destination for safari trips. On December 4, a special attraction factor will be added to it: a total solar eclipse

Moshe Gilad

Photo: Moshe Gilad
A family of lions in Kruger Park. The ticking of the cameras blended nicely with the sound of bones crunching coming from the direction of the lioness

On December 4, 2002 at 08:20 in the morning, a strange darkness will prevail in the Kruger Park in South Africa. For the first time in the park's recorded history, the animals and visitors will experience a total solar eclipse. It is already clear that it will not be easy to get a place to stay in the park area - one of the most popular reserves in the world - in the first week of December. And the safari in the Kruger Park provides a powerful and exciting experience even when the sun is not hiding behind the moon.

The fact that the eclipse occurs exactly during the Hanukkah holiday (which lasts the entire first week of December) only increases the charm of the idea for Israelis. The park is about a four hour drive from Johannesburg. The price of the flight to Johannesburg is about 800 dollars.

The area of ​​the Kruger Park in the northeast of South Africa is the same as the area of ​​the country
Israel (22,500 square kilometers). A visit to the park allows convenient viewing of the animals
the largest two continents. The numbers are very impressive: at the last count (in
2000) Kruger counted 10,000 elephants, 5,000 giraffes, 2,500 lions and about 200
cheetahs

Tourist hunting, which in recent decades has replaced rifle barrels with lenses
Cameras, is a huge industry in this part of South Africa. in the Kruger area
Dozens of private reserves operate, hundreds of hostels, hotels, operators of
Safari tours, guides who specialize in finding the animals in the depths of the reserve and more
and more. Personal experience shows that urban cats are also distinct, that domestic cats are gray
Seen in their eyes as dangerous wild animals, turned into hunters on such a short safari trip
and treasure hunters, who stick to the goal at all costs.

Juan Pinto is a young guide in neatly ironed khaki clothes who accompanied us
For several days of safari in the Kruger Park. Already at five o'clock in the morning Pinto spoke without
Harf on the radio with some inspectors who discovered a family of lions not far from the lodge.
Such a deal requires agility and decisiveness, said Pinto. He urged the driver to step on
On the pedal, although, after a moment's hesitation, he decided to avoid deviating from the road
The marked one gave up traveling in the field, so as not to leave unnecessary traces. ten minutes
Then we glided with the engine off towards a sandy beach. Behind two bushes, indifferently
Absolute, a large lioness gnawed a piece of steaming red meat. There were five around her
Lion cubs are as sweet as kittens.

Within three minutes two more greenish vehicles, including tourists, were standing next to us
Sunburned and enthusiastic, who were also alarmed by the message on the walkie-talkie. ticking
The cameras blended in nicely with the sound of bones crunching coming from the direction of the lioness. Pinto
He seems very satisfied, as someone who managed to deliver the goods at an early hour.
The large carnivores are the cream of these tours. "But everyone comes for
To see prey", he told us jokingly when we asked him to show us giraffes waiting
grass.

Organized safari tours of this type are designed to satisfy the customer. each one of
The person sitting in the car said what his favorite animal was. Pinto wrote in a small pad, he asked
A few questions about the relationship, and off we went. Until lunch time, then we have to go back
To the lodge for a meal and rest, a contented pinto deleted all requests, esp
to rhinos We saw them on the sunset tour.

The vast spaces, the knowledge that humans are here as voyeuristic guests, and the encouragement of
The staff and the guide are motivated, all of these affect the excitement. More
On one occasion we were told that we were "really lucky." Not every day you manage to see
Such a sight" (An elephant stalks a grove, a cheetah that remains planted in its place in the middle of the road, Monday
Rhinos mating vigorously, 40 beautiful giraffes on a mighty run, not clear
from what).

Added to all this excitement at the beginning of December was the total solar eclipse. The eclipse will cross
the Kruger Park from west to east in its northern part. After a change in Kroger will be seen
The eclipse is also in Mozambique and will continue to the Indian Ocean.

William Mabasa, spokesman for the Kruger National Park, emphasizes the precedent - a complete eclipse
First in the reserve. According to him, the management of the park invests resources to allow tourists
As many as possible to see the eclipse, within the limits of local laws. for example,
Temporary camps were opened especially for those coming to watch the eclipse in the park area,
to add 2,500 places to stay on top of the existing ones. The price of staying at the sites
The time limit is extremely low - a group of six-eight people, who will be questioned on such a site
For five nights, you'll pay about $500. The park slightly raised the entrance fees
On the day of the eclipse: the entrance price for a daily visit on December 4 will be 50 rand (about 5
dollar), compared to about 4 dollars on the other days.

On a normal day, the gates open at 05:30 in the morning. On the day of the eclipse the gates will be opened
Much earlier: Phalaborwa gate, the main gate of the park, will be opened already
at 02:30 in the morning; Papuri gate will open at 03:00 and Fonda Maria gate
an hour later. Mabasa recommends pre-booking the entrance tickets for the day
The drawback, because there is a daily visitor quota and he has no doubt that it will be filled
quickly.

The park management has demarcated three viewing areas within the area where the eclipse will be visible
fully. In these areas, visitors will be allowed to leave their vehicles to watch
in the eclipse, which should last about 90 seconds. Armed guards will protect them from
dangerous animals. Public services will be established in these areas, and of course
Food, drinks and souvenirs will be sold. The park management will operate a bus service from
The gates to the designated viewing areas. Also visitors staying in the camps in part
South of Kruger Park will be able to use shuttle services to the area on the day of the eclipse
the northern

A solar eclipse enthusiast website has compiled all the organized tours going out
For a safari in Kruger Park during the eclipse. The list that appears in it contains suggestions for 77
Tours of different companies. Some of them specialize in safaris, some of them in astronomy, some of them
in mysticism. The entrepreneurs agree on one thing: the most intriguing question
is how the animals in the park will react to the fact that the sun will suddenly disappear at eight o'clock
And twenty in the morning? Will there be silence or will a terrible commotion break out?

Kruger Park website:

http://www.krugerpark.org

The website of the tour center on the day of the eclipse:

http://www.bit-net.com/ eclipsetrips.htm -pauer/eclipse02/2002

https://www.hayadan.org.il/BuildaGate4/general2/data_card.php?Cat=~~~362267532~~~56&SiteName=hayadan

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